September 23, 2026 – Qaqortoq, Greenland

What a day. This evening Lee and I board a ferry and start sailing north to Ilulisaat, four days away.

But, we board at 7 PM so what to do, what to do? I know, I’ll go to the fish market and ask the guy there if he knows anyone who will take me out for a couple of hours on a boat to go somewhere to look for wildlife. So, I went, the guy found a local and he, his young son, his wife and myself went out on his boat.

First we crossed the fiord and dropped off his wife who went berry picking on the big island. Then, we motored along the island shoreline until we came to the passage to the opposite side of the island.

We spotted humpback whales and watched them until they dived deep. Then, we motored along the shoreline. The scenery was fantastic if you like this treeless Arctic terrain like I do.

I saw some objects on a rocky, grass covered slope that didn’t look like boulders. I yelled at Las, the “captain”. I pointed to the slope and said, “musk ox”. We slowed and turned toward them and we spent 20 minutes watching the four musk ox. One of the coolest things on this trip so far.

Then, went back to Qaqortoq and rejoined Lee and boarded our ferry. Great day, great weather, though cold, and now we’re chugging north on the Sarfaq Ittuk ferry of the Arctic Umiaq Line. The ferry holds up to 238 passengers and no vehicles. This is the way to see western Greenland without spending a fortune.

Cheers



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